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EQUIPMENT AND TOOLS & MATERIALS
- By ACS Distance Education
- Published 08/10/2007
- Home and Garden
- Unrated
ACS Distance Education
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View all articles by ACS Distance EducationEQUIPMENT AND TOOLS & MATERIALS
EQUIPMENT AND TOOLS & MATERIALS
By
When you buy equipment or materials for your garden, you usually get what you pay for. The things which do the job well and last are usually the more expensive choices.
A good top of the range pair of secateurs, for example, should last 20 years or more, but a cheap pair may only last one or two years.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHEN SELECTING AND USING TOOLS AND MACHINES:
* Loose parts: check moving parts in particular, as well as bolts and screws.
* Adequate joins: where parts join (eg: the spade blade to the spade handle) should be
strong enough, and firmly fitted, to withstand the rigours of hard work. For handtools such
as spades, shovels and forks the most likely place for breakages to occur is where the
handle meets the tool head. It is important to ensure that you purchase tools with strong
durable handles, and that these are subsequently well maintained.
* Sharp edges: Newly made, or repaired tools will often have sharp edges that can easily
cut you, particularly if they have been poorly finished off.
* Splinters: Tools with wooden (ie: handles), or fibreglass parts, will often have
splinters, if they have been poorly finished off, or if they have been subsequently
damaged.
* Leaks: Check carefully for evidence of water, petrol, oil or other leaks. If there is
evidence of some sort of leakage, check to see if this simply a result of a loose cap (eg;
petrol cap), a loose connection (eg: on a hose clamp), or if machinery has been
tipped, dropped, etc, during use or transport.
* Wear & Tear: Tools with obvious signs of wear and tear are more likely to break down, or
to operate less efficiently.
Quality of Materials:
* Rust/Corrosion: This is a good indicator that the tool or machine has been poorly
maintained or stored.
* Good grip (to ground, hands): Good quality tyres are very important for machinery such
as ride-on mowers, particularly when they are being used on boggy or sloped areas.
Good hand grips are vital to ensure not only safe handling so that tools and machine
won't slip, or get loose from your control, but also to ensure comfortable handling.
* Safety guards: These are extremely important for machines that have parts that could
readily catch or grab you or your clothing; and for machines that are likely to throw up
debris such as stones or wood chips. Safety guards should always be kept in good
condition, and in the correct position while machines are operating.
* Anti-Vibration: Some machines that have high vibration levels (eg: chainsaws,
jackhammers) come with anti-vibration handles. These are not always available on
cheaper models. Such handles help reduce fatigue from trying to hold such machines,
and reduce the likelihood of problems, such as 'White Knuckles' (permanent damage to
the hands) from occurring.
GET SET FOR PRUNING & TRIMMING
The tools you might use for pruning or trimming are:
Secateurs, pruning saw, bow saw, shears, lopper, & hedge trimmer
Of these, the bare minimum is a pair of secateurs.
Secateurs are hand cutting tools which cut when the handles are squeezed, and spring open when released. There are two main types:
1) The scissor cut where two blades shearing past each other create a cutting action. If the blades are in good condition then the cut is clean and will not bruise plant material.
2) The anvil cut has a sharp blade cutting straight down onto a flat (anvil) surface. This type generally cuts more easily than the scissor type , but can bruise or tear plant material more readily
NOTE: SECTIONS FROM PREVIOUS MAG ON PRUNING & PRUNING TOOLS COULD BE SPLICED IN HERE!!!
Maintenance of Secateurs
Moving parts should be regularly oiled. Any parts susceptible to rusting should be wiped with an oily rag, or sprayed with a lubricant/protectant such as CRC or WD-40.
The cutting blades should be regularly sharpened - anvil types the blade should be sharpened on both sides, for scissor types the blades should only be sharpened on one side (the outer edge or side furtherest away from the other blade).
LADDERS
There are a multitude of uses for a ladder in the home and garden, including pruning taller plants, painting, changing light globes, and clearing gutters. As with other tools it is important to choose the right one and to use it properly. Falling off a ladder is pretty common, and it can be quite serious.
*Also have a stable footing for the ladder - for extra support on long ladders have a friend
hold on, but make sure they don't lose concentration.
*If the base of the ladder is stood on concrete or other smooth surfaces, then wooden or
rubber stops should be used for the feet of the ladder to prevent slipping.
*When putting up or taking down long extension ladders, get help. They are difficult to
handle and even if you don't strain yourself putting it up, without help you might not set it
up properly.
*NEVER over reach when standing on a ladder; instead, get down and move the ladder.
*Wear appropriate clothing on ladders - shoes with good grip; clothing which is tight and
won't get hooked on a branch or something else.
*When a ladder is leaning up against a wall, the base should be 1 metre out from the wall
for every 4 metres in height.
*Scaffolding and "Step Ladders" should be kept stable by using on even ground, as flat as
possible.
*Secure ladders at the top whenever possible (eg. Tie it to a branch), particularly on
uneven ground.
TYPES OF LADDERS
The two main materials for constructing ladders are wood and aluminium. Fibreglass is used, but mainly for small domestic ladders, and usually in conjunction with aluminium.
Wood is solid, secure, warm to touch in cool weather, and generally cheaper than aluminium. Wood, however, is heavier than aluminium, and requires greater maintenance.
Wood ladder is safer to use when working near electricity. Aluminium has the advantage of lightness, and lower maintenance, but can be very cool to touch in cold weather.
There are three main types of ladders. These are single section, push-up (in double or triple sections), and rope-operated pull-up (in double or triple sections). For small single section ladders wood and aluminium are both commonly used. For larger mobile ladders, two or three section push-up aluminium ladders are most widely used. For very large ladders, particularly rope operated ones, then wood is often used. The extra weight of aluminium stiles for the pulleys nearly eliminates the weight advantage, and the cost of the aluminium is much higher than for a wooden one.
Maintaining Ladders
If aluminium ladders are handled and stored carefully then they will require very little maintenance. If they are damaged, however, they are often difficult to repair, and whole sections may have to be replaced. Wooden ladders need regular care to prevent cracking, rot, or loose rungs. They should be periodically cleaned and painted with linseed oil or a similar preservative. They should never be painted as this will hide any defects. Wooden ladders should be stored under cover, and off the ground. Ropes should be regularly for signs of wear and tear, and worn or damaged ones replaced.
Learn the basic of gardening or landsc
SAFETY WITH TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
General Safety Rules:
* Always make sure that you have a clear working area
This means ensuring that you can operate your equipment without bumping into, tripping over, getting tangled, or being distracted by obstacles or things such as branches, dogs, trees, logs, fence wire, or ropes. Always ensure that other people and animals are well clear of where you are working. When using machines, such as mowers or brushcutters that can throw up stones this may require an extensive area.
* Always wear suitable protective gear.
When operating machinery you should at all times:-
- Wear hearing protection
- Wear suitable footwear, ideally steel capped boots. This is particularly important when
using high speed cutting machines, such as chainsaws, mowers and brushcutters.
- Wear safety glasses or goggles. These should be of a suitable quality (ie: comply to
Australian Standards).
* Wear suitable clothing.
Long sleeved shirts and trousers that aren't loose or baggy are generally suitable. These will offer some protection against such things as the sun, irritants such as grass seeds, and insect bites. Gloves will provide protection against splinters, cuts, insect bites, even help reduce blistering when using hand tools.
* Fire Safety
If there is any likelihood of fires occurring from sparks, etc. resulting from machinery use then don't operate such equipment on high fire risk days, ensure also that parts such as spark arrestors are in good condition. Fire prevention equipment (eg: backpack sprayers, hoses, rakes, shovels) should be made available, and this also maintained in good condition.
* Sun protection
* Protective creams
These are an optional extra that generally provide a protective barrier on your skin against staining from dirt, oils, etc.; help prevent skin from drying out; and may also prevent irritation or dermatitis resulting from frequent hand washing.
SAFETY FOR DIFFERENT EQUIPMENT
Chainsaws
Never use chainsaws above waist height. Make sure the timber being cut is solid (won't move). Always only cut when chain is running at full speed, and ensure the chain is regularly sharpened. Ensure that any small branches that may cause the chain to catch or kick are cleared away before attempting to cut larger branches and trunks. Regularly clear away cut material to ensure you won't trip over it. Keep wrists straight.
Check that the chain on the chainsaw is not loose, creating another danger.
Mulchers/Shredders
If you are not familiar with using these machines, stick to ones with narrow slots which your fingers can't easily get caught in. Make sure that you wear goggles (wood chips can fly back from the cutters, and branches can be gripped by the cutting blades and whipped about in the air as they are pulled into the machine), and gloves (branches can be easily pulled out of your hands causing skin to be ripped). Make sure when feeding material into the machine that any debris such as rocks, wire and twine is removed first. Don't overwork the machine, and only put in the right diameter branches that the machine is designed for. If branches get jammed in the machine and won't pull through, only use other sticks or logs to try to dislodge them NOT YOUR HANDS!. If that doesn't work you will have to turn the mulcher off, and wait till the cutting blades have stopped rotating, before attempting to remove stuck material. Be aware that the cutting blades are very sharp and even when not moving can still readily cut you.
Brush Cutters
It is very important to have correct footwear and ensure that you have secure footing, particularly on uneven or sloped sites. When cutting thick brush or grass be careful not to force the cutting. It is a lot easier, and safer, on both you and the brushcutter to cut thick material in stages, by reducing the height by a third or half at a time. It is also very important to use the right blade for the task at hand (eg: grass blades for grass, saw blades for thicker brush). Regularly clear away debris wrapped around the rotating head, but make sure the machine is turned off when doing so.
Hedge Trimmers
Use machines with a two handled control. Blade stopping speed should be fast (eg. 0.5 seconds). Always keep both hands on the handle. If using electric machines...always keep chord behind you, and over your shoulder.
Lawn Mowers
It is very important to clear as much debris as possible away from the area to be mowed. Such debris, such as plastic, twine and stones, will damage the mower, and solid objects such as stones can fly out from beneath the machine with the speed of a bullet. Safety glasses or goggles are essential (every year many people severely damage their eyes while mowing). Likewise solid footwear, preferably steel capped, should be worn. Foot injuries from the high speed rotating blades are common. If you want to inspect or work on the underside of the mower ensure that sparkplugs are disconnected first (for petrol models), or power chords disconnected (for electric models) to prevent the possibility of accidental starting of the mower.
TAKING POSSESSION OF TOOLS OR EQUIPMENT FOR THE FIRST TIME
Whether you hire it or buy it, the same rules apply:
* Be sure you have full operating instructions in writing.
* When you buy or hire equipment, ask to see it operating before taking it.
This helps ensure there are no faults (which could be dangerous), and also helps you to
learn how to properly use it.
* Check it has been serviced/tested properly before taking possession.
* Never take anything in bad condition or which you have reservations about your ability to
use properly.
SAFETY IN THE GARDEN:
1. Be aware of potential accident spots - trips, slips & falls are very common.
- Make sure ground and paved areas are not slippery. This includes removing rotting
leaves that may make areas slippery.
- Ensure pavers and steps are firmly fixed, and have an even, level surface with no
protruding edges that could be tripped over.
- Make sure living, play and access areas are not cluttered. This includes things which
you can trip over, which protrude, or are left lying around. Tools and machinery should
be kept in a waterproof, well secured place (prevents them being used by burglars or
children). Hoses should be hung on a rack or stored on a hose reel.(This also increases the life span of a hose)
2. Fires can pollute, annoy or even cause serious damage.
-Avoid burning if you can - it is best to compost or recycle as much material as possible.
-Make sure you are clear about government regulations (ie: council, fire authorities)
relating to burning off.
-Be very careful about when, where & what you burn off - pine logs give off toxins, so do
some plants (eg. Datura, Morning glory).
-Only ever burn in the open & keep a hose handy.
-Stay with the fire 100% of the time.
-Don't burn when very windy.
-Think of your neighbours! Is the smoke from the fire going to create problems for them?
Have they got washing hanging out?
-Don't burn in urban areas when the weather report states a bad pollution day.
-Stand up wind or to the side of the fire.
-Make sure fires are completely extinguished before leaving them.
-Never burn what you can mulch.
3. Bites
There are a multitude of garden pests that can cause severe pain, even death.
These include ants, bees, spiders, wasps, and snakes. The best trick is to avoid getting
bitten in the first place.
- Make sure that you wear suitable clothing when working (or playing in the garden).
Long sleeved shirts and trousers, suitable footwear, and very importantly gloves should
be worn.
- Be careful lifting up such things as logs, turning over rocks, moving old building
materials (eg: galvanised tin sheets, timber). These are favourite spots for many pests.
- Make sure long grass, scrub and other debris is cleared away from areas that are
regularly used.
- Firewood stacks should be kept well clear of living and play areas. Snakes and spiders
can often be found there, and the stacks may also create a fire risk.
- If you do see any pests then leave them alone. Move away from them. Most bites, in
particular snakes, occur when people try to catch or prod the pest.
- If you know you have a pest problem get in an expert to remove or kill them.
IF BITES OCCUR
- Try to identify what has caused the bite. Don't try and catch it. You are likely to get

